Lightly oil six 150ml pudding moulds. Cover the gelatine with some cold water and let it soak until it is completely soft. Gently heat the sugar in 200ml water until it has dissolved. Take off the heat. Wait until the syrup is hand-hot, then lift the gelatine out of its water and squeeze out the excess liquid. Add to the syrup mixture and stir until the gelatine has completely melted, then pour in the rosé wine. Divide the jelly between the moulds, cover and refrigerate until set.
For the peaches, put the white wine, sugar and lemon zest and juice in a saucepan broad enough to hold the peaches in a single layer. Bring gently to the boil, stirring to help the sugar dissolve.
If the peaches are quite ripe and not too big, poach them whole, otherwise halve them. Add them to the wine and poach gently, turning every so often, until just tender. Remove the peaches and boil the poaching liquid until reduced and slightly syrupy. Leave to cool – the liquid will thicken – then remove the zest. While the peaches are still warm, gently slip off their skins.
To unmould the jellies, dip the moulds very briefly – for only about 4 seconds – in very hot water. Invert each on to a plate and give it a good shake; the jelly should slide out.
Gently place a whole peach, or 2 peach halves (with a little syrup) beside each jelly and serve.
From A Change of Appetite by Diana Henry (Mitchell Beazley, £25)
Nigel Slater’s chicken wings, tomato and harissa
This recipe is very much a fork and fingers job. One of those dishes for which you will need a fork or spoon for the tomato sauce, but only fingers and some enthusiastic nibbling will get at the most delectable nuggets of flesh lurking on the crisp, roasted wing bones.
chicken wings 500g
olive oil 3 tbsp
thyme 10 small sprigs
garlic 5 cloves
tomatoes 450g, small
red chillies 2 small, hot
harissa paste 1 heaped tsp
boiling water 150ml
Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6. Put the chicken wings in a roasting tin, pour over the olive oil, season with salt and black pepper. Pull the leaves from the thyme and scatter over the chicken, then tuck the whole garlic cloves among them. Turn the wings over with your hands so they are nicely dressed with the oil and seasonings, then bake for 35-40 minutes till deep gold and crisp.
Lift out of the roasting tin and keep warm. Squeeze the soft garlics from their skins into the roasting tin, then add the tomatoes, halving them as you go. Tuck the 2 whole chillies among the tomatoes then place the tin over a moderate heat and leave to bubble for 5 minutes, adding a little more oil if necessary, until the tomatoes are starting to soften. Stir the harissa into the pan with a wooden spatula, then pour in the boiling water, scraping at the surface of the roasting tin as you go. Just as the tomatoes are starting to caramelise and the juices are bubbling, return the wings to the pan, continue cooking for a couple of minutes, then serve.
Nigel Slater is the Observer’s cookery writer
Wichet Khongphoon’s mango and chilli sorbet
mango pulp 850g, tinned is fine
lime juice 20ml
glucose syrup 30g
finely chopped fresh chilli 5g
pinch of salt
red chilli, lime wedges and mint sprigs to serve
Mix all the ingredients (except the garnishes) until well combined. Churn in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. When churned, transfer the sorbet to a plastic container, cover the surface with baking paper, then close the lid. If you don’t have a machine, put the mixture in a plastic container in the freezer. After 4 hours use a fork to scrap the sorbet to incorporate air. Do this twice. Freeze for 6 hours, or until firm. Serve scoops garnished with pieces of chilli, lime wedges and mint springs.
Wichet Khongphoon is chef-owner of Supawan, London N1
Nigel Slater’s apricot tarte tatin
Ripe fruit, pastry, caramel. The making of the caramel can be tricky. I avoid the temptation to stir the butter and sugar too much, which can often make it become grainy. Just an occasional stir over a moderately high heat is best for a smooth caramel.
caster sugar 50g
ripe apricots 500g (about 10)
puff pastry 500g
Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6. Melt the butter in the tatin tin, then add the sugar and leave to bubble to a deep-brown caramel. Take care that the sugar doesn’t burn, and avoid the temptation to stir it too much.
Slice the apricots in half, remove the stones, then place the fruit cut-side up in the caramel. Continue cooking briefly, so that the fruit softens fully, then remove from the heat and allow to cool sightly.
Roll the pastry, then cut out a disc slightly larger than the tatin tin. Place the pastry over the top of the fruit. Tuck the overhanging edges of the pastry under the apricots around the edge. Bake for about 35-40 minutes, until the pastry is puffed and golden.
Let the tart settle and cool a little before carefully turning it out, taking great care with the hot caramel.
Nigel Slater is the Observer’s cookery writer
Jane Grigson’s gooseberry fool
Everybody knows that gooseberry fool, like steak and kidney pudding, is a truly national dish. What many people don’t know is that “fool” comes from the French verb fouler, to crush. In France grapes, not gooseberries, are foulées, crushed, or rather mangled on their way to the winepress. This, I think, gives a good idea of how a gooseberry fool should be made. Too often gooseberries are overcooked, then sieved or liquidised to a smooth slop. Ideally, they should be very lightly cooked, then crushed with a fork, before being folded into whipped cream. Egg custard is an honourable, and an ancient alternative to cream; commercial powder custard is not. Don’t spoil this springtime luxury. It’s better to halve the quantities than to serve a great floury bowlful.
young gooseberries 350g, topped and tailed
double cream 275ml, whipped, or 150ml each double and single cream; or 275ml single cream and 3 egg yolks (if making custard)
Stew the gooseberries slowly in a covered pan, with the butter, until they are yellow and just cooked. Crush with a fork, sweeten to taste and mix carefully and lightly into the whipped cream.
To make the custard, bring single cream (or rich milk) to the boil, and pour on to the egg yolks, whisking all the time. Set the bowl over a pan of hot water and stir steadily until the custard thickens to double cream consistency. Strain into a bowl, and leave to cool before folding in the gooseberries.
Serve in custard glasses or plain white cups, with some homemade almond biscuits or macaroons.
Gooseberry fools can be frozen and served as cream ice: in this case, sieve the fruit as the pieces of gooseberry produced by mashing would spoil the texture of the ice. Later in the year other fruit may be substituted for gooseberries, uncooked raspberries and strawberries and peaches for instance, and in the autumn cooked purees of apple flavoured with apricot jam, and of quinces. Use just over half a pint of puree to half a pint of cream or custard.